JEAN CLAUDE RAMONET

"Ramonet in white is the equivalent of Henri Jayer or the DRC in red," writes Clive Coates. This is the most foremost property in Chassagne, producing marvellous white wines of all levels from village wines through to the famed Montrachet.

Arguably the star of the village of Chassagne-Montrachet. Jean-Claude Ramonet is the third generation to have run this truly great estate; carrying on a great reputation, rather than building or re-building.

It is said that grandfather Pierre walked into Burgundy in the late twenties with his knapsack on his back, and very little else. After years of buying and vinifying grapes he gradually accumulated plots of land in his chosen village. The story goes that when he bought his prized plot of Montrachet he reached deep into his pockets in the notaire's office in Beaune and pulled out wad after wad of cash to pay for it. His mattress must have felt rather strange that night...

More than 15 hectares of vineyards are cultivated, with an overarching philosophy of preserving vine age wherever possible. Fermentations take place in stainless steel tanks, and are transferred to cask when nearly complete. New oak starts at less than 10% for the villages wines, around 25% for most of the premiers crus (although the Ruchottes sees 40%) and between 50% and 75% for the grands crus. As a result, the wines are invariably powerful and very complex, with layers of rich fruit yet retaining excellent finesse.